A Southwest Nova Scotia road trip: Canada’s ocean playground
When you head out on a Southwest Nova Scotia road trip, you’ll quickly discover why the province is known as Canada’s ocean playground. This journey will take you through expansive beaches, historic fishing communities, Nova Scotia’s wine country, the cradle of French culture in Canada, and much more. This loop starts and ends in Halifax, and it’s the perfect way to take in so much of what makes Nova Scotia beautiful!
Read on to discover how to plan a Southwest Nova Scotia road trip of your own including the essential stops not to miss, how to get there, which routes to follow, and where to stay.
Have questions about planning your Southwest Nova Scotia road trip? Ask in our Road Trips in Canada Facebook community!
Presented in partnership with Tourism Nova Scotia
A Southwest Nova Scotia road trip: What to know before you go
The road trip route we’ve laid out here roughly follows a loop around Southwest Nova Scotia’s along two major highways. The southern portion traces Highway 103 along the South Shore to Yarmouth, and the northern portion follows Highway 101 through the Municipality of Clare and the Annapolis Valley. In many places, we recommend leaving the main highway and taking side routes to enjoy better views and more destinations.
In total, the route’s driving distance is 700 kilometres from start to finish. If you begin and end your road trip in Halifax, you can expect to spend roughly eight and a half hours behind the wheel, not including stops. I recommend setting aside at least five days for this road trip, while a week or more would be ideal.
The destinations are set out in order when traveling clockwise from Halifax, first westbound along the south shore and then eastbound parallel to the Bay of Fundy. If you’d prefer to travel in the opposite direction, start at the bottom of the article and work your way up.
While this article thoroughly covers most of the points of interest along the suggested route, there are still some sections where I need to explore in more detail, most notably in Shelburne County and the Digby area. This road trip is therefore a work in progress, and I’ll fill out the remaining sections as I have an opportunity to explore those areas in more detail.
Start your road trip in Halifax, Nova Scotia’s capital city
Whether you’re arriving by air or driving from elsewhere in Canada, the provincial capital of Halifax is a natural starting point for a Southwest Nova Scotia road trip. With the picturesque Halifax Harbour as a backdrop, Atlantic Canada’s largest city offers plenty to explore.
Discover Halifax’s early British military history at Halifax Citadel National Historic Site, and go deeper with a visit to the fort at Georges Island National Historic Site. Learn about Nova Scotia’s seafaring history at the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic, where you can view actual pieces from the wreckage of the Titanic. Dive into stories from Canada’s newcomers at the Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21. And don’t miss the longest-running farmer’s market in North America or beer samples at Alexander Keith’s, which has been brewing in Halifax for more than 200 years!
Learn more about the best things to do in downtown Halifax >
Head from Halifax to Peggy’s Cove
From downtown Halifax, it takes roughly an hour to drive to the village of Peggy’s Cove. It’s an easy drive southwest along Nova Scotia Route 333.
Peggy’s Cove is an active fishing village that’s home to the iconic Peggy’s Cove Lighthouse (officially called the Peggy’s Point Lighthouse). It’s the most photographed lighthouse in Nova Scotia and likely in all of Canada. A visit is essential not only to view the lighthouse for yourself — whether it’s your first time or your fiftieth, this classic East Coast vista never gets old — but also to look for other highlights that have become associated with it. Listen for the bagpiper and see if you can spot the Alpenhorn player who brings his miniature cows!
An accessible viewing platform was installed in October 2021, ensuring the postcard-perfect scene at Peggy’s Cove Lighthouse can be seen by all. Many visitors choose to climb down to the rocks to get a closer look. If you go, be mindful that the weather can change quickly. It’s not wise to climb on the rocks when they’re wet or slippery. And as the warning signs heed, stay off the black rocks at all times.
While you’re in Peggy’s Cove, take some time to visit the gift shops, grab a bite to eat at one of the local restaurants, and explore the galleries and stores packed with local artisan creations.
Explore the historic towns of Mahone Bay and Lunenburg
To start your journey to Nova Scotia’s westernmost point, depart Peggy’s Cove by continuing on Route 333 as it turns toward the north. You’ll circle around St. Margaret’s Bay and Mahone Bay before arriving at some of Nova Scotia’s most historic and picturesque towns.
Mahone Bay shares its name with the bay it sits beside. You’ll know you’re in the right place when you see the Three Churches, which together form an iconic scene on the town’s waterfront. This colourful seaside town is known for its excellent restaurants as well as its position on the Rum Runners Trail, a 119-kilometre trail that connects Halifax to the nearby town of Lunenburg.
Amos Pewter’s original location is in Mahone Bay, which is known for its handmade pewter jewelry, ornaments, and other keepsakes. The workshop is integrated into the store, and visitors can watch as hot pewter is poured into moulds and cast into beautiful creations. The town is also home to more artisans including a pottery studio and a shop that makes jewelry with pearls and Nova Scotia sea glass.
Less than 15 minutes further south on Nova Scotia Trunk 3, you’ll reach the town of Lunenburg. This UNESCO World Heritage Site — one of only two in North America based in urban communities — is a colourful town with a past rooted in seafaring, fishery, and rum running!
On your first visit to Lunenburg, a walking tour is essential. You’ll learn about the town’s many historic structures and be introduced to Widow’s Walks, rooms at the tops of houses where wives would watch and wait to see whether their husbands’ ships would return. The Bluenose II, a replica of the schooner still seen on the Canadian dime, is based in Lunenburg. It can often be seen in the town’s port, and visitors can take tours or even climb on board for harbour cruises.
Touring the Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic, visiting the town’s breweries and distilleries, indulging in seafood and nods to the town’s German heritage like schnitzel and sausage, and strolling by the brightly coloured storefronts with an ice cream are just a few more favourite things to do in Lunenburg.
Take a historic ferry to some of Nova Scotia’s best beaches
From Lunenburg, many travelers choose to head straight to Highway 101 and speed off to their next destination. If you can spare the time and slow down a little — and isn’t that the entire point of an East Coast road trip? — I highly recommend sticking to the coastline for a while longer. You won’t need to go far to feel the vibe shift from bustling tourist destinations to quiet rural communities.
To start, set your GPS to the Lunenburg-LaHave Ferry. This historic cable ferry has been taking locals and travelers alike across the LaHave River since the 1800s. The crossing only takes five minutes, and you’ll enjoy beautiful ocean views along the journey.
On the other side in the community of LaHave, explore local artisan shops and antique stores, and stop in for a bite to eat at LaHave Bakery or Ploughman’s Luncheonette.
As you continue westbound, you’ll encounter Crescent Beach. This 2-kilometre sand bar connects the LaHave Islands with the mainland. It’s one of the few beaches in Nova Scotia where you’re allowed to drive your vehicle directly onto the sand. Families enjoy beach days and swimming in the shallow water, while more adventurous types may take up windsurfing or kayaking around the LaHave Islands.
Just a little further down the road from Crescent Beach is Rissers Beach Provincial Park. Here you’ll find another 1.5-kilometre sheltered beach as well as a beautiful boardwalk hike through an inland marsh. The park also has two campgrounds, one with serviced sites and another with more sheltered unserviced sites, making it a popular stopover for campers.
In Liverpool, choose your own adventure
On Nova Scotia’s South Shore, Liverpool is a crossroads. Continue to the southwest and you’ll reach the westernmost point of the province, including the city of Yarmouth. Turn north on Trunk 8 and you’ll journey inland toward Kejimkujik National Park and National Historic Site. The choice is yours!
While you’re in Liverpool, visit the Fort Point Lighthouse, take in a show at Nova Scotia’s oldest performing arts theatre, or head to one of its seaside resorts for a relaxing stay.
Continue west into Shelburne County
If you choose to continue to chase the shore, your next destination will be Shelburne County. Here you’ll find even more scenic beaches, fascinating museums, and lighthouses galore. Find more information at the Discover Shelburne County website.
One interesting destination here is the Kejimkujik National Park Seaside, a protected area set aside to include Nova Scotia’s unique coastal features in the Parks Canada system. This is a day-use section of Kejimkujik National Park and National Historic Site, the rest of which is situated further inland. The park has two hiking trails, one easy and one difficult, that lead to pristine beaches.
Access to this section of the park is free. Note there are minimal services, and some sections of St. Catherines River Beach are closed from April to August to protect the nesting habitat of the endangered piping plover. Due to strong currents and a lack of supervision on the beaches, swimming is not recommended.
Dive into Canada’s French roots in Yarmouth and Acadian Shores
By the time you reach Pubnico, you’ve entered the Yarmouth and Acadian Shores region. Many people associate Quebec with French culture in Canada, but in this area of Nova Scotia you’ll find some of this country’s oldest French communities.
This part of the province offers a wide variety of experiences. In the town of Yarmouth, you can visit one of Canada’s newest lighthouses at Cape Forchu Lighthouse, take a self-guided walking tour to see historic Victorian-era homes, visit three fascinating museums, and stroll through the bustling Main Street downtown. Not far away, find the beaches with the best sunsets in Nova Scotia, and take advantage of this region’s dark skies to stargaze at the Deep Sky Eye Observatory.
Visitors continuing on to the United States may wish to board the CAT Ferry in Yarmouth, which sails during the summer months to Bar Harbor, Maine.
Learn more about things to do in Yarmouth and Acadian Shores >
Outside Yarmouth, you’ll find plenty of opportunities to explore the culture of the Acadians, the direct descendants of the first French explorers to settle in Canada. In the Pubnico area, step back in time at the Historic Acadian Village of Nova Scotia and take a deeply personal boat tour with Tusket Island Tours. At Church Point in Clare, see the largest wooden church in North America and explore the Rendez-vous de la Baie Visitor Centre.
Dine at restaurants throughout the region to try traditional Acadian dishes like creamed lobster and rappie pie. If you visit on August 15th, you can even join in on the National Acadian Day celebrations!
Discover where to explore Acadian culture in Southwest Nova Scotia >
Indulge in scallops and seaside views in Digby
Seafood is front and centre throughout Nova Scotia, but if you’re after scallops, make Digby your destination. The quality of Digby scallops has made them famous around the world, and many of the town’s restaurants feature them on their menus. Grab a seat with a port view, and pay close attention to the water level when you arrive. By the time you’re paying your bill, you’ll see a noticeable difference. That’s the magic of the Bay of Fundy and the highest tides in the world!
The Digby area is also the best in Southwest Nova Scotia for whale watching. Take a side trip along the Digby Neck to East Ferry and join a sailing with Petit Passage Whale Watch. Their dock is easy to reach, and they offer two three- to four-hour tours daily from June to September.
Some travelers choose not to continue on from this point and instead board the MV Fundy Rose ferry in Digby toward Saint John, New Brunswick. Depending on your itinerary, timing, and final destination, this ferry trip can save hours of travel time.
Click here to find out if the Digby to Saint John ferry is worth taking on a road trip >
Explore Nova Scotia’s farm life in the Annapolis Valley
The final stretch of your road trip in Southwest Nova Scotia will take you through the pastoral scenes of the Annapolis Valley. This is the agricultural heart of Atlantic Canada, where you’ll find fields and orchards, farm stands brimming with fresh local produce, farmers’ markets, and plenty of wineries, breweries, cider producers, and distilleries waiting to pour you a tasting flight.
At the Annapolis Valley’s west end, the town of Annapolis Royal is home to Canada’s first national historic site, and nearby you’ll find a replica of the country’s very first French settlement. As you make your way east on the Evangeline Trail, you’ll find more opportunities to explore Acadian history at Grand Pré National Historic Site just east of the town of Wolfville.
Learn more about exploring Nova Scotia’s Annapolis Valley >
Explore more Nova Scotia road trips >
